Maltese migrants arriving in Australia in the 1950s
13 April 2019 | Gattaldo
In 1948 an assisted passage agreement was signed between Australia and Malta and a substantial number of Maltese emigrated to Australia in the 1950s. By 1966, the Malta-born population of Victoria was 26,452. According to the 2016 Census, there were 175,563 people of Maltese descent in Australia and 37,614 Malta-born people residing in the country at that precise moment. That's equal to almost half of the population of Malta in 2016.
Most of the people I spoke to were second generation except for Sandie Ayling who moved to Australia in 1974. Sandie is fascinated by the island's rich history so it stands to reason that on her latest visit to Malta 6 years ago, her time was taken with scouring the various museums and temples scattered around the island. Although Malta's sun and sea were an important feature of her stay, Sandie says she also found great satisfaction in revisiting places from her childhood and in sampling Maltese cuisine she'd yearned for. I guess it must have been a lovely trip down memory lane for Sandie.
With our second generation interviewees, I found that Malta's culture and history were also high on their list, as was their personal history - the places their parents had told them stories about and the Mediterranean dishes their family had introduced them to. It seemed that, without exception, they were all keen to trace the steps of their ancestors. I couldn't help feeling it was very much a personal journey of discovery for each of them. Bernardette Vella told me that St Paul's Bay and Xagħra both had familial significance to her, and were certainly first on her list of places to visit 7 years ago when she travelled to Malta. Bernardette says that despite the fact that she's very much a hotel-by-the-beach-person, her family's history led her to stray beyond the sun and sea. She loves a sea view, and that, she says, explains why she chose to stay by the sea.
Most mentioned wandering around aimlessly as one of the things they'd indulge in when in Malta. It is after all the best way to take in the character of a place without sticking to a guide book which dictates your journey.
Michelle Tyerman was very clear about what she would look out for on her visit. She was last in Malta 10 years ago where she visited the church her grandparents married in, her parents' childhood homes and their local churches in Sliema and Paola. "We enjoyed using buses," she adds "to expose ourselves to as much of the real Malta as possible."
Michelle says she's fascinated by "the traditions in past clothing, in particular the għonnella", the headdress similar to a Turkish Çarşaf, but starched around a curved frame instead of tight around the head.
She specifically sought out restaurants and local shops for the authentic tastes of typical/traditional Maltese foods -"They are never the same here in Australia". The thing most special to Michelle however is the Maltese lace (bizzilla) she bought to bring back home and get married in.
I asked Michelle if there was anything unusual about Malta she'd had to work out. "As a child," she told me, "whenever I heard the Maltese speak, I remember getting the impression that they were angry with each other, but with my first visit, i understood it was just their way. It didn't help that I had little or no grasp of the language." Michelle says that one of the things she'd like to do on her next visit is to practice speaking the language.
Times have changed and news travels wide and fast, so Maltese Australians can now keep in touch with whatever's happening back in Malta. I asked what was the latest thing they'd heard about the island. I got different answers to this. Some mentioned a soccer win for the Maltese, one mentioned crime, quickly adding "crime is crime & its everywhere unfortunately". A couple mentioned that they had read about the increase in tourism and high-rise buildings and another mentioned October 2017's murder of Daphne Caruana Galizia - "I saw a story on tv about a journalist that was killed because she uncovered mafia money laundering. That pretty well shocked me."
It amazed me how on the whole, even if Malta is so far from Australia, it still is deeply entrenched in the minds and hearts of the Maltin Awstraljani. Well, next time you're in Malta, do pass by for a coffee and a chat.
09 April 2019 | Gattaldo
I met travel writer Juliet Rix quite a few years back in Malta. She's visited Malta for decades and knows the place well. It's been a long time but I vaguely recall I was doing up our first property in Valletta back then and so we met for a coffee in the capital. The conversation flowed as we both have a great love for the island, both in its history and its people.
She encouraged me to start writing the guide's LGBTQ chapter of the book and so started a most pleasant collaboration.
Juliet's research is meticulous and the guide has built a reputation for getting beneath the surface of the island to discover what lies beyond the sea and sun. Its flowing style makes it easy to find the information but I find it also goes deeper with the historical and archaeological insights. In this edition there's also information on wildlife and bird-watching, and plenty on Gozo and Comino.
Before you head over to Malta, I recommend getting the 4th edition of Bradt's Malta and Gozo. I always find that reading on my destination's history is a big component of the pleasure of travel.
09 April 2019 | Gattaldo
The strawberries are in season and the locals have decided that's a great opportunity for a general knees-up. The Mġarr Strawberry Festival is very much a family event and a great place to meet the locals. A constant supply of freshly picked strawberries are ferried regularly to the village square by the farmers themselves. Stalls sell a wide variety of desserts, snacks and beverages with a common ingredient, fresh Imġarr strawberries. There’s the expected home made strawberry wine, jams, conserves and other typical products but we also encountered such novelties as strawberry ravioli (Tasted surprisingly delicious actually) ! So keep your diaries free on the 28th April 2019. Strawberry fields for ever!
27 March 2019 | Gattaldo
Does this sound like an oxymoron? When we speak of eco-friendly accommodation, what usually comes to mind is a timber cabin nestled in the middle of nowhere with an open fire, lots of rustic charm and a septic tank. So is it possible to run a boutique accommodation in a 450 year old townhouse to a high standard while still loving the planet?
This was the question we asked ourselves as Guardian-reading, tree-hugging Londoners when we first bought the house. It's all about being responsible. We had to make the right choices when it came to the restoration of the house. Sourcing things locally on an island the size of a stamp proved rather difficult so wherever possible we tried to re-use building materials from the house and elsewhere. We also looked into ways of insulating the roofs and some walls while installing double glazed windows. Summer's the killer on a Mediterranean island so introducing airflow sorts out hot nights and also gets rid of excess humidity.
Furniture wise, aside from the kitchen, we went for antique, which is another word for recycled,
or commissioned local craftspeople to make bespoke pieces for us.
At home we try and use things for as long as we can, recycling them into other things when they're past their date (oh, ugly phrase - past their date!) but we somehow expect things in hotels and rentals to be brand new. This is because the very idea that these things were used by many before us seems to offend us. This can be a dilemma for the owner, so we tend to buy good quality stuff for the accommodation and when they're past-their-date (ouch!), we adopt them in our London home. We're proud that our sheets are hand me downs from the best boutique notel (by the way, that's another name for a non-hotel accommodation). The great thing is that quality stuff ages well. For example, a beautifully crafted wooden object actually looks better once it has been lived-in. Same with a marble or brass surface for example - age ripens them.
Plastic is an amazing and practical material... until you come to dispose of it so, rightly so, we're becoming more conscious of the need to reduce single-use plastic. There's no shame in constantly rethinking your strategy. We've recently introduced re-usable light coffee cups for our guests to carry with them if they fancy a coffee on the run. We have opted to replace the small free toiletries you get
in hotels with wall hanging dispensers in the shower. At home we're experimenting with options to replace the sponge (non-biodegradable). We've been testing a wooden brush to see if it does the job before we inflict it on our guests.
Provision was made to harvest and re-use rainwater. The great thing about most of the old Maltese houses is that they are built on top of a cistern which collects rain water from the roof. We had a second tank installed on the roof to which the cistern water is pumped. This water is in turn used to water plants and for the toilet.
Well, I thought educating would sound patronising so I went for informing. It isn't patronising of course because we learn as much from our guests if not more. It’s a great idea to get guests involved in loving the planet. In the green box below we have a few tips we encourage our guests to follow.
The thing is there's always more to do and, unless we're ready to leave everything and live off the land (tempting I know), we're always a work in progress and there will always be other things we can do to save the planet. We all need to do our best. Do tell us what else we could do with Indulgence Divine.
1.Keep shower time to a maximum of five minutes. Turn the tap off while soaping.
2. Likewise turn the tap off while brushing your teeth or shaving.
3. Open the windows for fresh air at least for a few minutes every day, including in winter. It helps have a more comfortable stay.
4. Close all windows when AC is switched on.
5. Turn all lights off when not in the room/house.
6. Carry our multi-use coffee cups with you, should you want to have a coffee on the run.
7. Always remember to carry our bag-for-life with you when you go out, just in case you buy something.
8. Please follow the recycling instructions (appropriate bin in kitchen) and recycle whatever is recyclable (paper, plastic, tin and glass)
9. Wherever possible please support our local shops and restaurants. They're what make the area what it is.
10. Besides the normal set of towels on the bed, we provide extra towels. We seal these so as to encourage you to pause before using more towels than are necessary.
Caravaggio arrives in Malta in Milo Manara's - Caravaggio - La Grazia
26 March 2019 | Gattaldo
This feels like a wet dream to me - two artists I love, gathered in one project. Milo Manara has just published the second of two volumes on the life story of Michelangelo Merisi, better known as Caravaggio.
The second volume includes the last 6 years of Caravaggio's life, including his stay in Malta where he was ordained as a Knight of the Order. The Grandmaster saved Caravaggio from a death sentence after he had killed someone in Rome. In exchange, the Order got several paintings from this master of Art, the most famous being the Beheading of St John now at the coCathedral in Valletta.
Manara's first book in the series Caravaggio Volume 1 is available through Amazon. The second volume is not available in English as yet. I've ordered my first and can't wait to read through it before putting it in the Indulgence Divine library to share with our guests. I shall keep you posted as to when the second volume becomes available.
Here's one I did earlier. It's our Minimalta mascot.
25 March 2019 | Gattaldo
The traditional sweet that Maltese children and adults alike look forward to biting into on Easter Sunday is the figolla, a flavoursome pastry and marzipan combination that comes in various shapes and sizes. Its religious symbolism is that of feasting after fasting - the new life after death. Traditionally the most common shape was that of the fish and it represented Christ.
On my latest day visit to the beautiful island of Sicily (the ferry journey from Valletta to Sicily takes only 1 hr 45 mins) I discovered similar Easter sweets which the Sicilians call Pupi.
Pupi take the shape of animals, persons, doves (in Catania) or that of a simple basket. Further north, in Abruzzo (near Rome) they are covered in chocolate, or sometimes in a black mixture of sugar and cocoa called gileppo and they're called paste nere (Black pastry).
One could almost assume the figolla came from Italy - the name figolla derives from figura, italian for figure - but the presence of ground almonds and citrus flavourings seems to point to Arab provenance. Similar ingredients are found in sweet recipes from Sicily and places across the Eastern Mediterranean which have been under Arab rule. It's rather difficult to say for sure because recipes adapt to people's tastes and therefore evolve differently when they travel.
The figolla consists of two pastry layers with almond paste in the middle and icing on top. In an interview on the Times of Malta, university lecturer Dr Noel Buttigieg claims that the references to the Maltese traditional Easter pastry date back to the second half of the 18th century. However he also points out that icing would probably have been missing from the recipe since sugar would not have been widely available until the 20th century.
Rowers practicing for the Malta National Regatta
22 March 2019 | Gattaldo
Click here to see Pathé Film.
This tradition is still going strong and to this day the race is held twice a year, to commemorate the withdrawal of British Royal Navy and Victory Day respectively.
At the end of this month on 31 March Malta celebrates Freedom Day (Jum il-Helsien) and rowers from 7 different clubs will, as I write, be intensely practicing to compete in races which can be viewed from the waterfront on the day.
Thousands of Maltese and visitors alike will gather on the walls of the cities surrounding the Grand Harbour to support their favourite club.
Our interview with David Camilleri
21 March 2019 | Gattaldo
We had the opportunity to interview a Maltese friend of ours for his tips on Malta. Enjoy.
13 March 2019 | Gattaldo
You're on holiday, you tell me, and on Sundays you deserve a lie-in. You're right of course, but what if I tell you that some of our boutique rental's beauties were discovered there, would you think otherwise?
To get a bargain you need luck and to get there before anyone else does. There are times when you come across nothing worth buying but the experience of nosing around the rows of stalls is in itself worth getting up for.
There are two types of sellers. The first are the professional ones. They know the value of each item so not much use haggling there. Their items are more refined and are themed. Then there are those who've set up store with what they found in their attics and that of their families. You'll have to look more closely here and rummage through their junk before possibly hitting on something they had no idea would be right up your street. I recommend dropping a couple of phrases in Maltese such as "Din kemm hi?" (Dean cammey?) meaning - How much is this? It helps to make the effort.
Pics: Collectible drinks bottles, books and comics, antique household stuff and 3 iron rampilas (the tortuous looking things the Maltese used to retrieve buckets dropped in the cistern in the past)
11 March 2019 | Gattaldo
This was my first experience of doing work for a charity as freelance Art Director. I had been looking for the right charity, one the ethos of which would be in sync with mine. I asked around and was introduced to the LVE Charitable Foundation by a friend who said they needed help as they were just starting.
The Foundation mentors young Londoners who might not have had the opportunities available to others. We were after a campaign image that empowered and made their prospective clients feel valued and sure of themselves, precisely that which the foundation achieved through their mentoring programmes. We did a series of portraits with the campaign message being - LVE Transforms.
If you wish to help the Foundation by giving your time or money, head to their website and contact Karen Bellamy.
Art Director Gattaldo, Photographer Melvyn Vincent
Art Director Gattaldo, Photographer Melvyn Vincent
11 March 2019 | Gattaldo
We interviewed the winner of the stay -
City College Plymouth's CEO Penny Wycherley.
ID: How did you become involved with the charity LVE Foundation?
PW: I know the founder of LVE - Michael Polledri, when he was developing the charity to support the mentoring work the foundation does with young people in North London.
ID: What enticed you to bid on a stay at Indulgence Divine at the LVE charity do?
PW: I was looking for something to bid on for the cause and Malta was already on my radar as I had always planned to visit on my retirement. Indulgence Divine looked interesting and unique so I decided to bid on that.
ID: Was Malta what you expected it to be?
PW: Yes and no. I loved the people’s pride in Malta and the sense of history embedded in the island’s fabric. I hadn’t realized just how badly the past had affected its present making it so dependent on tourism.
ID: What’s your favourite restaurant or cafe in Malta?
PW: BeBirgu Café on the ground floor of the St Lawrence Band Club, housed in a beautiful townhouse in Birgu’s central square is frequented by both visitors and locals. In my eyes, that’s always a good sign.
ID: What’s the quirkiest thing about Malta or the Maltese?
PW: The feeling that the past seems so close. The island’s history is always present, both in the architecture and in the language with its words drawn from so many cultures.
ID: Which local place or event do you find to be the most underrated and which the most overrated?
PW: My travel partner and I especially liked Fort St Angelo, the trips across the harbour to Valletta and the Maltese Philharmonic Orchestra at the Manoel Theatre (Valletta). We weren’t that impressed with the food generally served in restaurants.
ID: Which did you find yourself being drawn into?
a. Island’s history,
PW: The island’s history is fascinating. Malta’s past rulers have all left their own mark on the island, most evident in the various architecture styles, in the racial mix, the language and the people’s way of life. Walking round Birgu I could see Spanish, Moorish and Italian influences and flat roofs which reminded me of parts of North Africa. The closed balconies were unique but also had characteristics which I have seen in Salamanca, Valencia and Florence drawn together in a Maltese style.
ID: Would you recommend using public transport or car rental?
PW: We opted for public transport which despite some eccentricities served us well. It also meant we could experience the island rather than the traffic jams.
ID: Which museum did you find most interesting and why?
PW: Fort St Angelo told a fascinating story, giving us a background to both the fortified city of Vittoriosa (Birgu) in which we were based but also the various dangers which the island faced. It’s a story well told through audio-visual displays and through the physical structure itself. Looking down unto the
harbour, we could visualize the courage shown in battles, particularly the struggle known as the Great Siege when the Fort was the stronghold of the Knights Templar. We later went to the Malta at War Museum where we were able to explore the subterranean existence of the Maltese in the Second World War when they displayed such courage and tenacity.
ID: What did you find most interesting about Vittoriosa?
PW: Its history and particularly the transition between cultures as the dominant powers changed.
I also liked that although the new “rulers” had changed its name to Vittoriosa the locals still call it Birgu 500 years later. They are indeed a people with tenacity.
ID: If you had to return, which time of the year would you choose to visit?
PW: I’m interested in photography, so I guess that Spring would provide me with the best light to shoot the island - the shadows for photography would be more defined than in late summer. I would also love to see Birgu by candlelight.
ID: What is the thing you’ll remember most about your stay in Malta?
PW: The view across the harbour and the changing light reflected by the water
ID: Which book would/have you read while in Malta?
PW: I’m currently interested in what’s known as the nudge theory, so one of the various books on that subject and the impact on behavior. I could see this in action in the actions and responses of the changing rulers of Malta.
ID: Where did you travel outside of Birgu?
PW: We travelled to Mdina and had a very pleasant day in its magnificent setting and neighbouring Rabat. I was particularly pleased to be able purchase some fine pieces of locally crafted glass in translucent colours which will always remind me of our visit and seemed to capture light on the water.
ID: What is it you liked most about Indulgence Divine?
PW: Being able to watch the street life in the medieval streets from the window of a house that pays homage to the history with a unique style.
The curved facade of a church down Merchants Street
10 March 2019 | Gattaldo
The ferry from Bormla (Cospicua) was on time and it only took me 15 minutes before I disembarked besides an unusually beautiful building that badly needed restoration. Behind it, the majestically tall Valletta Bastions summoned me. A lift took me up to the Barrakka Gardens, a belvedere toastingly warm in the morning sun.
A visit to the capital city at different times of the day will present you with a distinct perspective each time. The light changes as does the mood, at times crowded with chaotic excitement, at others deserted and yours alone. Valletta presents you with plenty of eye fodder, but it's important to look up at the architecture, its shapes and shadows.
The city was built to impress, a European city built with money that poured in from Europe's elite after the Victory over the Ottomans in 1565. The ruling houses of Europe nicknamed Valletta as Superbissima - Most Proud
9 March 2019 | Gattaldo
If you stay at Indulgence Divine, you're bound to wander down to the harbour and the marina with its cafes, restaurants and the exclusive gargantuan yachts of the rich and famous -it's only a 5 minute walk from the house.
You stroll under the arched doorway with the British insignia and by the Malta Maritime Museum on your right, past the cannons lined on the side of the street and then you notice this cast iron steam engine on wheels.
I've always wondered what its original purpose was. Now it stands proud and beautiful welcoming all that go past it in the direction of Fort St Angelo at the far end.
Do you know what purpose it served? If you do, please share by commenting below.
The steam engine at the entrance to the Grand Harbour Marina. Image - Danjel Sky B
8 March 2019 | Gattaldo
With accolades from publications like Lonely Planet, Independent and The Guardian, Indulgence Divine is featured on TripExpert.com as one of the best accommodations in Malta. Indulgence Divine has also won TripExpert's Best of Malta award. According to expert reviewers, it is among the top choices for accommodation in Malta.
Based in New York City, TripExpert aggregates professional reviews of hotels, restaurants and things to do. On TripExpert.com, travellers can read over 1M reviews from leading travel media. The company was founded in 2014. TripExpert has been featured in The New York Times, GQ, The Daily Telegraph, and other publications.
Image - Indulgence Divine dining room detail
Image - a winding lane in Zebbug, Malta
8 March 2019 | Gattaldo
Winter brings with it rain to quench the parched island. Along with spring, winter is the season when the islands' countryside wears its Sunday clothes. The variety of flowers and shrubs can be fascinating. Sunny days provide the perfect opportunity to set off but, with its densely built up cities/ villages, where is it best to start your walks from?
A quick look at the Satellite map of Malta gives you an idea where it's less built up. Dingli is a good place to start from (take the ferry to Valletta and take bus 52 to Dingli). This walking trail takes you through Fawwara ending in Wied iz-Zurrieq where you can then take the bus back. Along the way, you'll come across pre-historic temples, a bronze age village, the famous cart ruts and pretty little chapels, not to mention the views from the cliffs in Dingli.
The second trail I recommend is the one starting at Marsascala (bus 124 from near Cafe Riche to Marsascala) which ends in the picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk. The map provides you with more than one route.
VisitMalta.com has other suggestions you might like to keep in mind before setting out for your walk. Remember to always take a bottle of water with you and a cap to protect your head from the sun.
7 March 2019 | Gattaldo
Like with bachelor/ette parties before a wedding, Catholics around the world get a last binge on freedom before the 40 days of Lent where they're allowed to eat meat - Carne-vale. This festival of folly started with the Knights in the 1500s. A mask gave the knights and those with a reputation to protect, the opportunity to let their hair down and indulge in what they were not allowed to during the rest of the year, mostly a good old debauched time.
Malta has just celebrated its Karnival (Carnival) last weekend. Throughout history this celebration has evolved into a colourful display of colour in Malta and a darker, spontaneous, grotesque manifestation in Gozo. The latter's social comment element reminds me of carnivals around the turn of the 20th century (see picture)
Image - Malta's Carnival at the turn of the 20th C.
Then Ash Wednesday arrived yesterday and the time for fun was over. The following is what I remember from childhood: On ash Wednesday (Ras ir-Randan) the parish priest would rub ash on our forehead to remind us all of our eventual demise (Catholicism is such fun!). I also remember having to forego sweets as a child until Easter.
What I did not look forward to as a child was Good Friday. At the time there were only a couple of radio stations and each of them played funereal music all day long. It was just designed to take any fun out of life! I also recall the visit to 7 different churches with my family to meditate at the fourteen Stations of the Cross.
Then there was the feast of Our Lady of Sorrows, with a procession following a statue of Holy Mary with daggers in her heart. Such drama!
Whereas everything was slow and torturous throughout Lent, Easter was celebrated with the faithful carrying a statue of the risen Christ while simultaneously running like there's no tomorrow through the crowd. This is an event that still happens in the town square of Vittoriosa.
Image - The 3 Graces - waiting for the running Christ.
6 March 2019 | Gattaldo
It seems counter-productive to worry too much about travelling after March. First of all, we don't have any idea when any changes will occur. We're not even sure when Brexit will happen or if it will happen. Life must go on and we'll all need our holiday break sooner or later. As beautiful as olde England is, we can't staycation for ever.
According to a recent study by site Finder.com, the things that are on travellers minds are uncertain exchange rates (the possibility that the pound might fall further), the possible reintroduction of data roaming charges (in the case of a no deal), longer passport queues (I thought we adored queues), the loss of the European Health Insurance Card (EHIC) and a possible increase in flight costs.
If we take the latest announcement by the European Council, it is highly unlikely that flights be grounded.
With that in mind, it is therefore best to book flights now before any changes in price may occur. Slight delays may happen in the case of a no-deal Brexit as British passports will have to be checked for issue dates (remember to make sure your passport is valid by using the Government online service that assesses your travel document). You'll most probably be asked to confirm that you have sufficient funds available for the duration of your stay and to show a return ticket.
According to The Independent, the air passengers’ rights rules stipulated by the EU will remain exactly the same, whether or not there is a Brexit deal.
Automatic VISA free travel across Europe is taken for granted but Brexit might change that for Britons travelling to the EU. According to the European Commission - "Entry/Exit system (EES) and the European Travel Information and Authorisation System (ETIAS)... will apply to United Kingdom nationals once Union law on free movement of Union citizens ceases to apply to them, as to other visa-free third country nationals." What this means is that we'll be charged €7 fee for a visa, but the good thing is that this will not likely be in place before 2020.
What about souvenirs? In the event of a no-deal Brexit, imports from the EU will be treated as with other nations. What does this mean? One litre of spirits or two litres of sparkling wine,
Image - Roxana Halls - Laughing While Leaving (2017)
sherry or port; four litres of still wine; and 16 litres of beer, up to 200 cigarettes or 250g or tobacco are allowed. You're also allowed to bring in goods worth up to £390. Anything else you'll need to pay duty and tax on. If a single item’s worth more than your allowance you pay any duty or tax on its full value, not just the value above the allowance.
Information changes constantly so always consult the government's official information on travel.
29 February 2019 | Gattaldo
We have all loved a story and from the beginning of time, human beings have been storytelling. Our history is who we are. Think about cave art, aboriginal petroglyphs, the Bible, Homer, we've been telling and listening to stories since the beginning of time.
When we travel, we look for the accounts which built the place we're visiting. There will always be those who look for things they're familiar with wherever they go (that's why chains like McDonalds do so well) but for most of us, travel is a learning experience, a way to discover ourselves through finding about other people's stories. We also look for thoughts, ideas, feelings which are common with our own experiences to be able to grasp their history?
We're fascinated by how others lived. We'd all love to travel in time and experience things for ourselves. What was it like when humans invented the wheel, when we first discovered how to create and control a fire? What was Malta like with the arrival of the Order of St John after so many rulers had left their mark on the island?
We do sometimes however get bogged down by the spectacle of fake history, historical re-enactments which, like bad taste souvenirs, can be rather detached from the real history. Much more interesting in my opinion are the actual walls of the city and its buildings which tell a much more intriguing story.
In this sense, the streets of the Collacchio in Vittoriosa are a place to get lost in, the fortifications around the city, even if restored to within an inch of their life, still encapsulate the stories of real people. The ghosts of history still haunt the 450 year old house we restored to share with you.
Image - Mike and I in a re-enactment of sorts.